Registered: Dec 2007
Location: Decatur, Alabama
Posts: 19

Last week I installed a set of Crank Bros Candy sl pedals on my EASYRACER GOLDRUSH and I am having trouble clicking in. Sometimes it takes 15 or 20 tries before they click in. This morning I used the same pedals and shoes on my mountain bike and I had no problems clicking in. Has anyone else used CANDYS on a recumbent, and if so, is there a special way to click in, when your pedals are out front of you instead of below?

Bud

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Registered: Aug 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 273

Hooboy, timing is everything. I ordered a pair of Candy 3 pedals last week and my LBS just called to tell me they have arrived. I will try them tonight and report first impressions. One suggestion. I know that Crank Brothers offers a shim for the cleats to reduce interference with some shoes. Maybe you need a set of those? I sure hope I haven't wasted $120 bucks.

Bill

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Registered: Dec 2007
Location: Decatur, Alabama
Posts: 19

Hey Bill,
I'd like to hear how your candy pedals turn out. I can click in ok when I am stopped, the problem occurs when trying to click in with the second shoe after I start rolling.
To click into the candy pedals you have to slide your foot towards the front of the pedal. This is hard to do on a recumbent with the pedals out in front of you, and even harder to do when you are pedaling. Pushing straight against the pedals doesn't work. The shims you mentioned came with the pedals, but they did not help. I think I am going back to SPD's.

Bud

Last edited by easyracer on 09-14-2010 at 02:26 AM

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Registered: Aug 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 273

Hi Bud,

Actually I guess I lucked out, mine work fine. Rode for only 1 hour last night, but really like the way the Candy 3 pedals feel and work. My feet engage and disengage easily, but there were no unwanted releases. No futzing around trying to find the compromise for spring tension. Keen sandals, which do flex a bit for walking. The platform on the Candys seems to offer sufficient support, although I wont know for sure until I ride for 3 or more hours this coming weekend. The pedals are noticeably lighter in weight than the SPDs they replaced. The bearings are very smooth too. The pedals just look and feel like high quality. Time will tell how they hold up. They are totally serviceable and there are clear instruction on the website for how to do it. I am impressed and really hope these work out well for me.

In the instruction sheet that came with my pedals, Crank Brothers explains that they offer metal shims in three different thicknesses that are necessary sometimes depending on your shoe. I think you are confusing the metal shims with the small rubber pad that is supplied with the pedals that goes between the cleat and the sole of the shoe. You can get the metal shims directly from Crank Brothers or from your dealer. They have a very good website. If my first impression is any indication these pedals are worth having. Don't give up yet!

Bill

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Registered: Aug 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 273

Bud,

One other thing. I don't have to put the front of my foot in first, I just step on the pedal and they click right in. Not different to SPD in that regard. Disengagement is just as easy, but there is no spring tension adjustment and once clicked, my feet are securely locked in. I tried a fast sprint at high cadence and my feet stayed locked. With SPDs a fast sprint often resulted in disengagement unless I cranked the spring tension up some and then I had trouble getting my foot out when I wanted to. I also like the platform support under my sandals.

Bill

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Registered: Oct 2007
Location: queens,ny
Posts: 17

I have had good experience with two different models of Crank Bros. pedals on my Gold Rush. The model I'm currently using is the Smarty.

Try off angling a little to the left before pushing down and then a little to the right. Your approach angle might be off a bit.

Draw a pencil line on the side of your shoe lining up the center of the cleat. It will help be a reference for the cleat location.

Send a queery to Crank. Bros. I'm sure they can help you.

I'm very happy with my pedals.
Hope you're sucessful.

Pat Mullen

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Registered: Dec 2007
Location: Decatur, Alabama
Posts: 19

Hey Guys,
Thanks to all that responded. The Crank Bros have both "SHIMS" and "shields" that can be installed between the cleats and the shoe soles for their pedals. The "SHIMS" are used to move the cleats farther away from the sole to prevent binds between the shoes and the pedals. The "SHIELDS" are used to protect the shoe soles from wear caused by contact with the wings on the pedals, and also serve as shims. The shims come with the pedals, but the shields must be ordered separately. I have both. Neither of them helped my problem, because shoe to pedal interference is not what's causing it. I clicked the shoe in while holding it in my hand and verified that there was no interference. I have already contacted CRANK BROTHERS, and here is their reply:
Hello,
Thank you for your e-mail.
I could see how this could be tricky, because our pedals work best when you can use your leg force down to clip in and to release. Most recumbent users that have e-mailed me have used our 5050 flat pedals, so I have never had this complaint before. Could you move a bit closer to your cranks/pedals to get more power into the pedal when you clip in?
Thanks
Anka Martin
Global & mobile customer support from around the world

ankamartin@me.com
www.crankbrothers.com

They were not much help.
The problem may be that the wings on the pedals do not turn very freely. Since this is my first pair of CRANK BROS pedals, I don't know how easily they are supposed rotate. I'm hoping that they will get easier to use after they are "broken in", because once I get clipped in I really do like these pedals, and I have no problems clicking out. BTW, I have used these pedals on LAKE MTB shoes, and on a pair of new SHIMANO RT31 road touring shoes. I did have to use the shims on the RT31 shoes, but I still have trouble clicking in.
Bud

Last edited by easyracer on 09-24-2010 at 06:46 PM

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Registered: Dec 2007
Location: Decatur, Alabama
Posts: 19

The more I use them the easier it is to clip in. They are getting easier to rotate, and my feet are learning where the "SWEET SPOTS" are.

Bud

Last edited by easyracer on 10-15-2010 at 02:54 AM

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Registered: Aug 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 273

The more I use them the better I like them.

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Registered: Jan 2003
Location: Southeast CT
Posts: 96

Sounds like 'good' and 'getting better' experiences. Maybe I should try them ... The only clipless pedals I've ever used used are the Speedplay Frogs. They were recommended to me due to large amount of float and fact that there is no spring tension. I've had no problems unclipping from both road shoes and sandals.. but am always glad to learn from other's experiences...

Tom

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Tom

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Registered: Aug 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 273

If you are having not problems stick with the Frogs. For all I know they would be even better than the Candy 3s, but I never tried them.

Bill

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Registered: Nov 2002
Location: Lugoff, South Carolina
Posts: 116

I've used clips/straps, Frogs, SPDs, Look Keo Classics and
Speedplay Light Action pedals over the past 32 years of
cycling. The Light Action pedals are my all-time favorites.
They are easy to latch and unlatch, and I've never had an
inadvertent release.....and they don't feel "floaty" as compared
to the Frogs.
Also, the Light Action pedals work great with Speedplay's
rearward cleat extender kit. I was able to install my cleats
1 1/4 inches behind the balls of my feet.....a big plus for
reducing ankle and knee stress. FWIW: Speedplay also sells
a leg length discrepancy correction kit. I use that, too.

Johnny

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Easy Racers Titanium Javelin SS
Easy Racers Gold Rush
Wizwheelz Trike

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Registered: Dec 2007
Location: Decatur, Alabama
Posts: 19

I'm going to keep them. they're great pedals.

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